Popping the Bubble: The Dark Side of Champagne

In the spirit of post-holiday hangovers, it felt like a good time to talk about some of the issues of celebration alcohol. And nothing says celebration like Champagne.

I’ve heard people say "Champagne est le vin de la fête" ("Champagne is the wine of celebration"), associated with special occasions, life events, and luxury. Sometimes, I have been told, “but champagne is champagne,” with the idea that it is a different thing entirely and drinking champagne is special, reserved - distinctive.

It is really nice, but a lot of the fine points (or fine bubbles?) are lost on me. And it’s a bit problematic, like any luxury product these days.

There was an article in The Guardian a few weeks back about the exploitation of farm workers there. Migrant laborers picking grapes often face exploitation—with low wages, inadequate food, and makeshift shelters.

The issue of Champagne connects to deeper issues within the global food system, where even prestigious products are tied to exploitation. In fact, it seems like they’re the ones most likely to be.

Champagne est le vin de la fête ?

The Guardian's article pointed out the ugly realities behind the luxury, the contrast between personal indulgence and systemic exploitation or farm workers. It’s yet another example of a luxury product with troubling business practices. I’m not sure that there’s one without them.

In the Champagne region, exploitation in the largest, billion-dollar vineyards conditions amount to slavery.

Frankly, I don’t make much distinction between exploited labor and slavery when migrant workers are subjected to grueling conditions and paid terribly—if they’re paid at all.

At the same time, Champagne sales have dropped significantly, with major producers squeezing out smaller, independent winemakers.

The Champagne region has jealously guarded its name through ironclad Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) rules, aggressively ensuring that only wines made in their exclusive little bubble get to use the term "Champagne," no matter how comparable others may be.

The Champagne Standard

While France isn’t perfect, it’s ahead in some areas—particularly with its strong organic and sustainability standards.

French agriculture is a lot less reliant on chemicals and industrialized methods than the U.S., but there’s has for improvement—especially with high-profile products like Champagne, which set a global benchmark for ethical and environmental practices.

These prized designations can be traps, creating rigid systems that could use a reform.

Champagne has complexity of flavor and fine bubbles, but really, it’s the centuries of branding as a symbol of exclusivity and celebration that make it. Just saying “Champagne!” kind of means “celebration.”

Whether it’s truly “better” than other French sparkling wines is a matter of personal taste, though I know people will tell me otherwise, but I think you really have to talk yourself into believing something is special when it’s €150 a bottle.

Alternatives to Champagne

For a cheaper and possibly more ethical option, Crémant from regions like Saumur in the Loire Valley, is a better bubbly for the buck. As a perk, many offer transparent labor practices, organic certifications, and commitments to sustainability, driven by some stricter regulations but also by consumer demand.

Not exploiting people is a part of their brand, whether accidentally or on purpose.

Crémant producers also have more freedom with grape varieties, a more sustainable option as monocultures are more vulnerable. Crémant’s is also aged a bit less (9 months on lees, compared to Champagne’s 15 months) and the Bourgogne, Loire or Alsace varieties are all pretty distinct flavors. All of this means that they can be profitable at a lower price while having more flexibility in the face of climate change.

If you’re shopping in the US, here are some other good suggestions and then a harsh, but fair review series on sparkling wines, all of them a bad value.

Wine’s fine, but liquor’s (consuming water and natural resources) quicker

Wine regularly comes under fire for labor and environmental practices, yet when produced well, it’s one of the most eco-friendly ways to drink.

I like beer (a trait I reluctantly share with Supreme Court Justice Kavanaugh—how this man has more authority than running a convenience store is beyond me—and for the record, I believe her, and the other hers too). Despite its increased popularity, beer still tends to fly under the radar in conversations about alcohol.

Breweries in France have surged from under 300 in 2009 to over 2,500 today (over 3,000 by some counts), while in the US, there are nearly 10,000 breweries, up from 1,500 or so 20 years ago.

Brewing beer is incredibly resource-intensive: a 1 liter of beer requires 7 liters of water, far more than the 1.2-1.5 liters or so needed for wine. Then there are more resources needed for materials, heating and cooling.

Spirits like vodka, whiskey, or tequila need up to 25 liters of water per liter of alcohol produced, depending.