French Recipe: Steak Tartare

Steak tartare is a divisive dish, but not as much as I had imagined. Considering how rare most steaks are served here, it’s not far to entirely raw meat.

The name “Tartare” has some mythological association with the Tatars of central Asia. The suggestion is that they rode around with steaks under their saddles to tenderize them or something unlikely. Like a lot of recipes, it appeared in 19^th century restaurants and became popular in the 20^th. Bistros just give dishes exotic names to make them sound interesting.

Auguste Escoffier’s (1846-1935) endorsement of tartare helped made it popular. Escoffier is credited with the “birth” of modern French cuisine (which is quite old at this point) and making French cuisine internationally popular, describing a system of foods and techniques that was largely a synthesis of cultures that had made their mark on Parisian dining.

It's also unsure if horse meat was the first choice for the dish. I’ve heard conflicting stories. If it wasn’t an option then, it is now. Whatever the reason, the French are less squeamish about eating horse. There’s a small “cheval” section in pretty much every supermarket I go to here.

@qistohTARTARE DE CHEVAL 🥩🫶 #horsemeat #cheval #viande #viandedecheval #bavette #tartare #recette #recipe #recipes #cuisine #chef #try #firsttime #egg #delicious

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Curiously, raw meat is still seen as healthy and a rich source of protein, vitamins, and minerals, etc. Then again, this idea might be a carryover from the ages of “health tonics” including cocaine and other practices of the era.

Seasoned raw meat dishes are featured in many cultures: Korean Yukhow, Ethiopian kitfo, Italian carpaccio and Nduja and kibbeh from multiple countries, notably Lebananon. Today, tartare is a staple in French bistros and fine dining establishments alike.

It’s not a light dish: after a steak tartare and a few glasses of wine, my day is basically over.

K

Recipe: Beef Tartare

serves 4

Notes:

·      Everything should be as fresh and chilled as possible.

·      Your butcher prepares this dish for you, really. Find one you trust.

·      This recipe is beef, not horse.

·      Best to serve this on the same day you buy.

 Ingredients:

·      8 ounces beef tenderloin, finely chopped

·      8 ounces beef sirloin, finely chopped

A mix is nice, but not 100% necessary

·      1 small shallot, diced

·      2 tablespoons capers, chopped

·      2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

·      1 tablespoon olive oil

·      1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

·      1 egg yolk (optional, fresh)

·      2-3 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped – I use a lot as I like the freshness it adds

·      Salt and pepper, to taste

·      Bread or toast points

·      Garnish: green onions, microgreens or a salad is a good idea. Fries are typical here.

Directions:

1.        Chop the beef finely (¼” dice or smaller) if you butcher doesn’t.

2.        Combine beef, shallots, capers, Dijon mustard, olive oil, and Worcestershire.

3.        Shape, cover and chill 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. You can skip this, but it makes a difference.

4.        Make a well for the egg yoke, garnish with parsley, S&P.

5.        Serve cold. Garnish and serve immediately from the fridge – or as close as you can get.

Options: adding cucumbers or green peppers changes the flavor up nicely & lightens the dish a bit.